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西班牙葡萄酒有過輝煌的榮耀,但在最近的20年葡萄酒最興盛時期,卻鮮少受到世人的關愛,淪落到令人嘆息的地步。這個全世界葡萄酒產量最多的國家,彷彿是一座被遺忘已久的神祕花園,荒廢花園裡的雜草隨便一撥開,映入眼簾的盡是百年以上的老葡萄藤,這些珍貴的百年老藤,像是未琢磨的寶石,隨時準備綻放光芒。

誰喚醒這沉睡的巨人呢?

clip_image003Jorge Ordóñez 是美國最大的西班牙酒進口商與零售商,從四十家西班牙酒廠進口130款葡萄酒到美國。當沒有任何人在乎西班牙葡萄酒的時候,他驕傲地說:「我在乎!」。他認為:「The world associates Tempranillo with Spain, but Garnacha is Spain's true heart, both historically and production-wise. 」。Jorge 開始關注西班牙當地原生品種,並對於擁有珍貴老葡萄藤的果農把葡萄便宜地賣給釀酒合作社,以生產廉價的餐酒的現象感到不可思議:「為什麼我們不為那些擁有珍貴老樹的葡萄園恢復該地區的聲望?老葡萄樹擁有較低的生產量,能夠明確反映土地風味。他們需要的只是新的釀酒技術與觀念,就能為消費者提供新的選擇。」,因而有了 OROWINES 的成立計畫。

因此他在西班牙各地尋找擁有原生葡萄老藤的小葡萄農,以西班牙當地品種,以及新的釀造技術來釀造具有現代風格的葡萄酒。更帶來 Flying winemaker (Sarah Morris、Chris Ringland、Kracher…)為他釀造特定風格的葡萄酒。(例如請奧地利貴腐酒大師 Alois Kracher 釀造 Malaga 蜜思嘉甜白酒…)。

OROWINES 是一家於 2002 年所成立的酒廠聯盟,由最初九個分屬不同  D.O. 產區的酒廠組成,每個酒廠擁有自身獨特的個性,但整體又有共同的風格。事實上,他們各自擁有當地的原生葡萄品種並且盡力保護珍貴的老葡萄藤。而葡萄酒的風格則由延聘世界知名的 Flying winemaker 所主導。OROWINES 以單一公司的形式運作,擁有共同的商業平台以及行銷策略。

他對酒廠循循善誘,甚或強勢要求他們更新釀酒技術、探索老葡萄藤,以及透過任何新的可能性來釀造更好的葡萄酒。Jorge Ordóñez 對於品質控管、葡萄園管理、發展新的調配方法、市場拓展、以及包裝方式,都直率地提供新的想法並且給予建設性的批評,目標是生產出高質量的西班牙酒,讓大家改變對西班牙葡萄酒品質不佳的印象。

世上最有影響力的酒評家 Robert Parker 兩次提起 Jorge Ordóñez 是年度最有個性的葡萄酒從業人員,也是過去 20 年葡萄酒界最有影響力的人物之一。

At present these are the wineries of the OROWINES group:

Bodegas Alto Moncayo (Campo de Borja) , Enologist: Chris Ringland(AU)
Bodegas Ateca (Calatayud) , Enologist: Sarah Morris(AU)
Bodegas El Nido (Jumilla) , Enologist: Chris Ringland(AU)
Bodegas Jorge Ordonez & Co. (Malaga) , Enologist: Alois Kracher、
Gerhard Cellers Can Blau (Montsant) ,Enologist: Sarah Morris(AU)
Bodegas Juan Gil - Orowines Jumilla (Jumilla)
Bodegas Volver (La Mancha)
Bodegas Atalaya (Almansa) , Enologist Gabrielle Laforgia(AU)
Bodegas Avanthia (Valdeorras) , Enologist Amy Hopkinson(NZ)

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CELLERS CAN BLAU

D.O. Montsant

 

Founded: 2003 – Number of barrels: 300 – Hectares of vineyards: 34

Sales: 70% export, 30% local Montsant is a D.O. which probably has not yet shown its real possibilities as far as enological quality is concerned.

Contrary to its illustrious neighbor Priorat, in Montsant one can work with characteristic varieties each one planted in soils of different composition, i.e. sand and clay for carinena, lime for syrah and slate for garnacha. Jorge Ordonez participate here with the Gil Family –also present in Bodegas El Nido in Jumilla- in a project

materialized with the purchase of 62 acres of vineyards with an average of age of 35 years and also includes the construction of a new winery in the district of El Molar. The management of the vineyard and the technical control is under the responsibility of the Australian enologist Sarah Morris (who worked at Torbreck).

 

Mas de Can Blau

 

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Type of wine :

Aged Red

Varieties :

50% carinena, 30% syrah, 20% garnacha

Aging :

20 months in brand new barrels

Alcohol deg. :

14.50%

Production :

11,000 bottles

  

2007 Cellers Can Blau Mas de Can Blau Montsant DO

Robert Parker 92 pts

The 2007 Mas de Can Blau is a similar blend aged for 20 months in new French oak and bottled without filtration. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it sports a brooding nose of slate/mineral, pain grille, incense, underbrush, plum, and black cherry. Opulent, full-flavored, and powerful on the palate, this savory, concentrated effort will benefit from 2-3 years of additional cellaring and offer a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2022.

The 2007 Mas de Can Blau 由三種葡萄混和,沒有過濾並在法國新橡木桶中存放20個月,在杯子中呈現不透光的深紫色,可聞到迴繞的石版瓦礦物質味道,和烤麵包、焚香、灌木叢、洋李和黑苺等華麗的香氣,香濃馥郁並強勁有力,酒體集中複雜。

Wine Spectator Score : 92

This plush, rich red delivers ripe flavors of blueberry and blackberry, with toast and cola notes and a spicy finish. The tannins are firm and well-integrated, and there's enough acidity for balance. A fine example of the modern style. Drink now through 2016. 400 cases imported.

2006 RP 92 pts    WS 92 pts

2005 RP 95 pts    WS 91 pts

2004 RP 92+ pts

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BODEGAS EL NIDO

D.O. Jumilla

This winery is owned in collaboration with Chris Ringland, Jorge Ordonez, Miguel Gil and others.  It is located in the Valley of La Aragona in Jumilla.  Grapes are sourced from Monastrell vineyards that are 79 acres on terraces oriented to the northeast. The vines are trained in the vaso system and yield 1,425 lbs per acre. The average age is 60 years old. The climate is continental.

Founded: 2002 – Number of barrels: 600 – Hectares of vineyards: 44

Sales: 90% export, 10% local

The Bodegas El Nido project is the result of the collaboration of several wine professionals. First the Gil family whose members are well-known and prestigious producers in Jumilla for their previous work in Finca Luzon with Miguel Gil as head of the operation and President of the “Consejo Regulador”. Also Jorge Ordonez, born in Malaga, who with a lot of effort and dedication has become the main Spanish Wine importer in the U.S. and Chris Ringland one of the best Australian enologists and author of Clio and Nido.

The winery is located in the Valle de La Aragona, inside the Murcia district of Jumilla and sorrandings. The vineyards are 64 acres of old monastrell vines, all vaso trained and oriented northeast and 45 acres of cabernet sauvignon planted 25 years ago on smooth hills looking north.

 

El Nido

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Type of wine :

Aged Red

Name of winery :

Bodegas El Nido

Zone :

Jumilla

Varieties :

70% cabernet sauvignon , 30% monastrell

Aging :

22/26 months in barrels

Alcohol deg. :

15.50%

Production :

5,000 bottles

This is a highly collectible wine, with scores from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate typically coming in in the 97- to 99-point range. Will Aussie winemaker extraordinaire Chris Ringland rack up another perfect 100 pointer, his first from Spain? Only time will tell. 70% Cabernet, 30% Monastrell.

這瓶必定要珍藏的酒,總是得到Parker 97-99分的高分,澳洲最最頂尖的釀酒顧問 Chris Ringland 會讓這瓶酒得到完美的100分嗎?只有時間可以證明。70% Cabernet, 30% Monastrell. ,年產量只有400箱。 (Chris Ringland他自己釀的澳洲酒於11年間得到 Parker 的分數是恐怖的 : 5次100分,2次99分,最低95分)

2006 Bodegas El Nido "Nido" Jumilla DO

Robert Parker 97 pts

The 2006 El Nido is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Monastrell aged for 26 months in new oak. Aromas of wild blueberry and black currant are room-filling. Dense, layered, and totally hedonistic, it has serous depth and concentration, impeccable balance, and a 60-second finish. A bit more structured than Clio, it will have a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2026.
Bodegas El Nido employs Aussie vigneron Chris Ringland as its winemaking consultant.

The 2006 El Nido 混和 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Monastrell在新橡木桶中熟成26個月,野藍莓和紅醋栗的香氣充斥整個房間,濃郁且多層次的魔幻變化,酒體深邃集中,無懈可擊的完美平衡感,持續60秒的優長尾韻,簡直是人生最大的享受。

2005 RP 98 pts     2004 RP 99 pts

2003 RP 97 pts     2002 RP 96 pts

  

 

Clío

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Type of wine :

Aged Red

Zone :

Jumilla

Varieties :

70% monastrell (old vines 60 years) , 30%cabernet sauvignon

Aging :

22/26 months in barrels

Alcohol deg. :

15.50%

Production :

18,000 bottle

2007 Bodegas El Nido "Clio" Jumilla DO

Robert Parker 94 pts

The 2007 Clio is made up of 67% old vine Monastrell sourced from a vineyard planted in 1944 and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon from a vineyard planted in 1979. The alcoholic fermentation is in oak followed by ML in new barrels and aging for 26 months in new French and American oak. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it displays an in-your-face bouquet of wood smoke, underbrush, incense, blueberry, and black currant. Dense, chewy, packed and stacked, the fruit quality is superb, the balance impeccable, and the finish lasts for nearly a minute. It will be controversial with those who prefer low alcohol and finesse in their wines. Those who like unrestrained power and richness will adore it quite aside from the fact that it over-delivers for its relatively modest price. Drink it from 2011 to 2022.
The winemaking at Bodegas El Nido is overseen by the renowned Chris Ringland.

67% old vine Monastrell 和 30% Cabernet Sauvignon ,在木桶中發酵,並在新橡木桶中熟成26個月,深邃的黑紫紅色,遠遠就可聞到誘人的燒烤、灌木叢、焚香、藍莓和黑醋栗的香氣,豐滿、優雅,散發濃郁無比的成熟果實香氣,無懈可擊的完美平衡感,驚人的餘韻長達一分鐘。

2006 RP 95 pts     2005 RP 95 pts

2004 RP 97 pts     2003 RP 96 pts

  

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BODEGAS ATECA

D.O. Calatayud

 

Founded: 2005– Number of barrels: 210 – Hectares of vineyards: 85

Sales: 90% export, 10% local

Bodegas Ateca has its headquarters in the locality of Ateca (Zaragoza), fourteen Km away from Calatayud. The vineyard –garnacha variety- has an average age of 50 years and it is planted around the hills of the Ateca Mounts, being slate the main component of the soil. They are situated in the highest zones of Ateca.

The wines of Bodegas Ateca, technically managed by the Australian enologist Sarah Morris (who worked at Torbreck) , are the result of a precise grape selection work following organoleptic and analytical quality criteria, and harvesting at the appropriate ripeness moment.

corresponding to a noble aging. It is very fresh and fruity in the mouth. It has a notable ending where fruity and spicy aromas come back via retro-nasal. It

is a magnificent expression of an elegant Garnacha from Aragon.

  

Garnacha de Fuego

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Type of wine :

Young red

Variety :

100% Garnacha

Alcohol deg. :

14.50%

Production :

180.000 bottles

 

 

 

2009 Bodegas Ateca Garnacha de Fuego Calatayud DO

Robert Parker 87 pts

The 2009 Garnacha de Fuego was sourced from 60- to 80-year-old vines at 3000 feet of elevation, insane for an $8 wine. Aside from the price, the other piece of good news is that there are 6500 cases for the USA market. Purple-colored with spicy black cherry aromas that jump from the glass, this is a forward, friendly, ripe effort with no hard edges. Drink this crowd-pleaser over the next 2-3 years.

葡萄採栽自海拔 3000英呎 60-80 年的老藤,擁有這樣優越的條件,這種價格真是超值,深紫色的酒體帶有香料和黑櫻桃的味道,圓潤香濃,單寧成熟而柔順,非常值得一嚐。

2008 RP – 89

Atteca ARMAS

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Type of wine :

Aged red

Variety :

100% Garnacha from very old vines

Aging :

18 months in French oak barrels

Alcohol deg. :

14.50%

Production :

6000 bottles

 

 

2007 Bodegas Ateca Armas Calatayud DO

Robert Parker 91 pts

The grapes for the 2007 Atteca Armas were sourced from a 13 acre hillside vineyard planted in 1909. It was aged for 18 months in new French oak. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it displays an enticing nose of pain grille, pencil lead, violets, plum, and black cherry. Structured and dense on the palate, this savory, full-flavored effort will evolve for 2-3 years and offer a drinking window extending from 2012 to 2022..

葡萄採自於1909年的老藤,不透光的深紫色,散發誘人的烤麵包、鉛筆心、紫羅蘭和黑櫻桃等複雜迷人的香氣,酒體結構圓潤均衡且完整,餘韻更是柔滑綿長。

Wine Spectator Score : 91

Offering supple tannins and bright acidity, this lively red delivers a mouthful of sweet cherry, cranberry, vanilla and toast, while herbal accents keep it all grounded. Drink now through 2014. 500 cases imported.

2005 RP 93 pts

 

Paso A Paso Tempranillo

Bot Paso a Paso Tempranillo  (L)

Type of wine :

Aging red

Variety :

Tempranillo

Aging :

6 month in French oak barrels

Alcohol deg. :

13.50%

Production :

120,000 bottles

 

2009 Bodegas Volver Paso a Paso Tempranillo La Mancha DO

The Paso a Paso Organic is 100% Tempranillo made from certified organic grapes aged for 6 months in French oak. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it delivers a brooding bouquet of plum and blackberry. Surprisingly dense and ripe for its humble price, it has very good volume and savory flavors on the palate. Drink this concentrated effort over the next 3-4 years.

葡萄是有機認證的 100% Tempranillo,不透光濃如朱墨的深紫色,洋李和黑苺的香氣不斷湧現,這個價位的酒竟然有如此出人意外的濃郁和醇美,風味絕佳又超值的好酒。

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BODEGAS VOLVER

D.O. La Mancha

Number of barrels: 440 – Hectares of vineyards: 95

The soil, the climate and the age of the vines were the main reasons leading to the company decision of buying 95 hectares of vineyards situated at 2165 ft. above the sea level and with an average of age of 40 years. The sandy soil (up to 3 ft. deep) has a calcareous subsoil of big boulders with a high content in clay.

The yield of the vines is very low, between 1 and 2 kilos per vine, with a extreme climate of cold winters and hot summers and also big differences between day and night temperatures, indispensable conditions to elaborate high quality wines. Our goal is to achieve the maximum expression of the Tempranillo variety cultivated in the zone. After a careful selection, only the best vines are hand harvested.

The inclusion of Verdejo, variety of contrasted quality, in La Mancha, has been done in vineyards planted in poor soils to get very low yields and thus obtain high quality grapes. Paso a Paso Verdejo will reach the position it deserves among the best pretty soon.

Within all these conditions, Bodegas Volver wants to go a step further in the D. O. La Mancha.

VOLVER

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Type of wine :

Aged red

Variety :

Tempranillo

Aging :

14 months in French oak barrels

Alcohol deg. :

14.50%

Production :

12,000 bottles

 

 

2007 Bodegas Volver Volver La Mancha DO

Robert Parker 90 pts

The 2007 Volver is sourced from a single 72 acre vineyard that was planted in 1967 with head pruned Tempranillo. The wine was barrel-fermented and aged for 14 months in new French oak. Purple-colored, it offers up an alluring aromatic array of pain grille, smoke, violets, black cherry, and blackberry that jumps from the glass. On the palate it is medium- to full-bodied with gobs of ripe fruit, succulent flavors, soft tannins, and excellent balance. This lengthy effort over-delivers big-time and is a superb value.

葡萄來自1967年種植且72公頃單一的葡萄園,木桶中發酵後在全新法國橡木桶中熟成14個月,誘人的深紫色,迷人的烤麵包、煙燻、紫羅蘭、黑櫻桃及黑苺等複雜的香氣不斷湧現,中度酒體結構中帶有豐富的成熟果味,單寧如絲絨般柔順,極佳的平衡度,極度超值的酒款。

Volver Venta Morales

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2009 Bodegas Volver Venta Morales La Mancha

Robert Parker 88 pts

The 2009 Tempranillo was aged for 6 months in French oak. Purple/black in color, it has an enticing nose of violets, iron, pencil lead, blackberry, and black cherry. Dense and succulent with a bit of structure, it is likely to evolve for 1-2 years .

在橡木桶中熟成6個月,深邃的黑紫紅色,迷人的紫羅蘭、熨斗鐵、鉛筆心、黑苺及黑櫻桃等香氣,中等酒體中帶有緊密及多汁的果味。

 

Frank Hung 0922-820-304

frank5757@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

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