夢幻酒鋪 (酩豐)

Elio Grasso 艾利歐 格拉索 酒莊

Elio Grasso 總是自稱他是師承 Aldo Conterno (一家令人尊崇的酒莊)，對 Conterno 酒莊更是抱以最崇高的敬仰。Elio Grasso 於1979年放棄了銀行的工作跑到 Monforte 經營這間 14公頃的酒莊，有了大師 Aldo 的協助與建議，Elio 在古典派與現代派間開創了自我的風格，他的幾款酒被認為是整個 Barolo 地區最為傑出酒款之ㄧ，四年前他的小孩 Gianluca 從釀酒學校畢業後，擔任酒莊的釀酒師，GianLuca 第一次釀酒，就得到 Gambero Rosso “ Red Wine of the Year ” 的肯定，這代表一個釀酒師自我要求甚高的成果。

現在 Elio Grasso 可以說是 Barolo 大師級的釀酒師，優美的酒莊位於異常陡峭的葡萄園中間，由於地處偏僻，一定要在這先提醒你，來到這裡後不要變成孤魂野鬼了，雖然只有短短的路程，但在這陡峭的深山裡上上下下再繞幾圈後，你將再也找不到回家的路了。酒莊外面有一株 120年珍貴的長春藤老樹，這裡的景色異常壯麗非三言兩語可以描述的，想要捕捉這風景，除非你搭直升飛機才能將這過於陡峭的葡萄園拍攝下來。

酒莊現在採用不鏽鋼桶取代大型橡木桶發酵，不讓酒吸收過多的橡木味道，莊主 Elio 特別強調，現有葡萄園的面積是他能照顧的最好的限度，在他有生之年不可能再增加葡萄園面積。酒莊秉持著 20年前對客戶所許下了承諾，以較低的產量來生產高品質的酒，尤其是2004年的 Barolo Riserva Runcot 得到 Wine Spectator 98分的肯定，應該是當年 Barolo 裡的最高分了。

Antonio Galloni ( Parker雜誌專門評分義大利酒的專家)說 : Elio Grasso 的兒子 Gianluca 是 Piedmont 地區，最年輕耀眼的釀酒師之一。一如往常般地堅持理念，捨棄了釀製 2005 年份的 Riserva Runcot，但是造就了該年份另外兩款的 Barolo 紅酒。從風格上來詮釋現代與傳統方式所釀製的葡萄酒，前者代表了葡萄園區工藝的手法，後者表達了釀酒的技巧。Elio Grasso 在 Monforte小鎮上這三個單一葡萄園 Ginestra, Gavarini and Runcot 都有獨一無二的品質，Elio、Marina、Gianluca and Francesca Grasso 等家族成員和釀酒師 Enrico Marchisio 都非常的低調、謙虛有禮。

Parker 針對 Barolo 的最新評論 :

These 2007 Baroli from Elio Grasso are worthy successors to the stunning 2006s. Readers will have to wait until 2012 for the 2006 Barolo Runcot. The more time passes, the greater my esteem grows for this underappreciated and often overlooked grower in Monforte. To be sure Domenico Clerico, Conterno-Fantino and Aldo Conterno get most of the attention in Monforte, but at their best Grasso’s Baroli more than hold their own. A recent magnum of the 2000 Runcot was quite possibly the finest and most elegant 100% new French oak-aged Barolo I have ever tasted. Grasso’s 2007s Baroli saw 30 days of contact on the skins followed by a full 30 months in large, neutral oak casks.

在眾多生產 2007 Barolo (Baroli 為 Barolo 的複數) 的酒莊中，Elio Grasso 已是最傑出的繼任者，因為 Elio 生產了令人贊嘆的2006 Barolo。葡萄酒愛好者一定要等到 2012 年買 Elio 的 2006 年 Barolo Runcot Riserva。認識 Elio 時間越久，我對這家受忽略及沒得到應有評價的酒莊越加尊敬。在最知名產區 Monforte 裡的 Domenico Clerico，Conterno-Fantino and Aldo Conterno 三家酒莊最受人注目，但是 Elio Grassio 的幾種 Barolo 也不惶多讓，尤其是最近我試過的 2000 Barolo Runcot (1.5L) 單一葡萄園酒款，表現出令人訝異的精緻和優雅，在眾多儲存於 100% 全新法國橡木桶款式的 Barolo 中，這瓶是我認為最好的。

葡萄園

Grasso 家族的葡萄園位於 Barolo 最好的產區 Monforte d’Alba，這裡在 20 世紀初就開始種植葡萄，酒莊現在有三個單一葡萄園的 Barolo : 其中兩個 Gavarini Vigna Chiniera 和 Ginestra Vigna Casa Maté 是儲存於南斯拉夫大橡木桶裡，是傳統派的酒款。另一個 Runcot 儲存於全新的法國小橡木桶裡，是現代派的酒款。最讓外界對這家酒莊另眼相看的是 1986，1991，1992，1994 和 2002 年這 5年中因為氣候的因素導致 Nebbiolo 葡萄生長品質不佳，Elio Grasso 就連一瓶酒都沒有銷售到市面上。

Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera

占地 3公頃，位於海拔 320~360 公尺，面向南方的 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chinnera 單一葡萄園種植了樹齡 20 年的Nebbiolo 葡萄。以傳統 Barolo 風格釀製，12~16 天於恆溫不銹鋼桶內發酵。接下來便是 2 年的南斯拉夫大橡木桶存放。酒窖內再存放 8~10 個月後方可問市。每年 14,000 瓶的產量。

Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Maté

占地 3 公頃，位於海拔 300~350公尺，面向南方的 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Casa Maté 單一葡萄園種植了樹齡 25 年的Nebbiolo 葡萄。以傳統 Barolo 風格釀製，12~16 天於恆溫不銹鋼桶內發酵，接下來便是 2 年的南斯拉夫大橡木桶存放。酒窖內再存放 8~10 個月後方可問市。每年 14,000 瓶的產量。

Barolo Rüncot

占地 1.8 公頃，位於海拔 300~320 公尺，面向南方的 Barolo Rüncot 單一葡萄園，以現代的方式釀製葡萄酒，存放在法國橡木桶內 28~30 個月，之後再到不鏽鋼桶內進行乳酸發酵。Barolo Rüncot Riserva 只有在絕佳的年度才有生產。每年 70,000 瓶的產量。

Nebbiolo for Langhe Nebbiolo

占地 1.2 公頃，位於海拔 350~380 公尺，面向南方的 Langhe Nebbiolo 單一葡萄園種植了樹齡 15 年的 Nebbiolo 葡萄。7~8 天存放於恆溫銹鋼大桶內發酵，發酵後再存放於不鏽鋼桶內四月到五月後裝瓶。每年產量 6,500 瓶。

進口酒款

2004 Elio Grasso Barolo Rüncot Riserva

Wine Spectator -- 98

Sweet spices introduces this concentrated red, whose deep, sappy flavours of cherry and plum mesh effortlessly with the supple texture. Licorice and mineral notes play around the edges, while the tannins are well-integrated. Stay bright long on the finish. Best from 2013 through 2035. 125 cases made. Score 98 – Wine Spectator.

甜香料的香氣來自這瓶結構扎實色澤深沉的 Barolo，充滿豐富的櫻桃及洋李的柔美味道相互湧現，緊接著感受到甘草和礦物質的口感，並有架構完整的單寧，餘韻悠長且清新持久。只生產125箱。適飲期: 2013~2035。

Robert Parker -- 96

I was deeply impressed with the Barolos I tasted this year from Elio and Gianluca Grasso. This is an important vintage for the Grasso family, and readers will want to get their hands on these exceptionally pure, beautiful wines before they disappear.The estate’s 2004 Barolo Runcot presents lovely harmony and balance. It is a full-bodied, concentrated wine with plenty of ripe dark fruit intermingled with sweet toasted oak nuances. Grasso says he may give this as much as 40 months in oak. Runcot is aged in 100% new French oak, although toast levels have come down, in 2004 50% is light toast and 50% is medium toast. It remains a very promising wine made in a distinctly more modern style than the house’s other Barolos. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2022.

當我試過 Elio 父子所釀製的 2004 年份的 Barolo Runcot 令我印象非常深刻，這是一個絕佳的年份，消費者應該趁著這瓶酒被掃光之前，趕快去買這瓶異常純淨，完美無暇的好酒。這瓶酒呈現出令人愉悅的和諧和均衡，酒體結構扎實且集中，充滿大量豐富的黑色醬果的味道，並融合香甜的烤橡木味道。Grasso 說他將把這瓶 Runcot 存放在 100% 的法國新橡木桶中40個月，但是橡木桶的火烤程度會降低，50% 輕度火烤，50% 中度火烤，這瓶新派的好酒有別於酒莊裡其他傳統派的 Barolo。適飲期 : 2011~2022。

Stephen Tanzer: Tthis spent 40 days on its skins and aged for 35 months in new French barriques. Good full red. Musky red fruits, licorice and mocha on the nose, complicated by violet and tobacco nuances. Quite sweet but firm on entry, with a spine of ripe acidity giving energy and shape to the powerful red fruit flavors. Finishes long and fine, with noteworthy energy and a lot of positive development ahead of it. A classic Barolo that Grasso says is higher in acidity than the 2006 version. Quite likely to merit an even higher score with several more years of bottle aging. Score 93 – International Wine Cellar.

Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Maté

( 進口 2006、2007年份 )

2006 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Maté

Wine Spectator -- 97

Full of sweet, ripe plum, cherry, licorice and eucalyptus notes, this is a powerful red. Its tannins are just gripping, keeping everything in check and ensuring a long life. Flesh, mineral finish. Best from 2014 through 2035. 850 cases made. Score 97 – Wine Spectator.

2006 年份的 Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate，香甜中帶有成熟的李子、 櫻桃、 甘草和桉樹的氣味。扣人心弦的單寧味充滿在味蕾之中，整體架構扎實，充滿生命力。尾韻中綻放出肉味和礦石味。適飲期間 : 2014~2035年。年產850箱。

Robert Parker -- 96

The 2006 Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate is simply marvelous. Sweet, balsamic and layered, this powerful Barolo covers the palate with endless dimensions to its fruit, showing exceptional richness and density. The wine continues to blossom beautifully in the glass with myriad expressions of dark, perfumed fruit that are hard to fully capture with words. This is class personified, but the tannins will require a measure of patience. Still, it is impossible to miss the wine’s pedigree and significant potential. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031.

2006 年份的 Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate 令人感到驚訝，香甜、高貴的巴薩米克黑醋味和複雜的層次感，入口後於味蕾處綻放出永無止境的果香，呈現出獨特的豐滿與濃稠度。持續在酒杯中綻放出那令人無法以言語表達的黑色水果香氣，呈現出經典的氣勢。但是扎實的單寧的需要多一點時間醒酒。這是一款不可錯過珍藏品，深具潛力的葡萄酒。適飲期間 : 2016~2031年。

Stephen Tanzer: Good full red. Reticent nose offers strawberry, nuts, mocha and brown spices . Fat, sweet and deep; showing more texture than the Gavarini but less open to inspection today. This really explodes on the back half, finishing with superb breadth and length and a perfume of dried flowers. Big, dense tannins and a firm acid spine give this a serious structure. Score 94 – International Wine Cellar.

2007 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Maté

Robert Parker - 96

The estate’s 2007 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate is quite a bit fresher and firmer than the Gavarini. The exuberant personality of the vintage is also a bit more balanced and restrained. This is a beautifully layered, textured Ginestra Casa Mate endowed with endless layers of dark, mineral-infused, balsamic-tinged dark fruit, all of which flow through effortlessly to a long, sumptuous finish that lasts forever. The stunning bouquet, purity of the fruit and overall balance are simply breathtaking. The Ginestra Casa Mate will be a fascinating wine to follow over the coming years and decades. Could it be a modern-day 1990? Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.

這瓶 2007 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate 比 Gavarini 更清新更扎實，這年份有豐富的酒體個性，也更加均衡和嚴謹，有複雜美好的層次是 Ginestra Casa Mate 特有的內涵，無盡層次來自黑色醬果、礦物質、些許高貴的巴薩米克酒醋的的味道，所有口感都悠長持久，奢華高貴的尾醞似乎永無止盡，令人讚嘆的香氣和水果的純淨，並有令人驚訝的完美平衡感，我覺得他像 1990 年份一樣好。適飲期 : 2017~2032。

過往年份分數

Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera

( 進口 2006、2007年份 )

2006 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera

Wine Spectator - 93

A monolith, this is seemingly impenetrable for its carapace of tannins, though there is a kernel of sweet cherry, strawberry and tobacco flovours underneath. In the end, this is elegant, yet taut and full of tension. Best from 2014 – 2030. 850 cases made. Score 93 – Wine Spectator.

真是宏偉，雖然帶有甜櫻桃，草莓和煙草的氣味，但是單寧的外表似乎還是難以穿透。優雅的氣味中帶有令人驚訝的平衡度。適飲期間 : 2014~2030年。年產 850 箱。

Robert Parker -- 95

Grasso’s 2006 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is laced with racy, perfumed red fruit, flowers and minerals. The wine gains weight and depth in the glass as its energy and vibrancy take center stage. This is a supremely beautiful Barolo where expressive aromatics, generous fruit and silky tannins come together with unusual grace and elegance. Sweet, floral notes add a sense of lift on the finish. The 2006 is the best Gavarini since the 1989, and who knows if one day it might not match that legendary Barolo. Readers won’t want to miss the sublime 2006 Gavarini Vigna Chiniera. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Score 95 – The Wine Advocate.

色澤紅潤的 2006 年份的 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera 鑲有芳醇的水果香氣，花香與礦石味。不論是深度或是廣度，這款酒必定能在舞臺上綻放出她的能量與活力。雍容華貴的 Barolo 散發出獨特的香氣、濃厚的水果果香和細膩的單寧氣味，伴隨而來的是非比尋常的恩典與優雅。尾韻中挾帶出花香般的甜味。這款酒自從 1989 年首次推出後，2006 年份的 Barolo Gavarini 真是極品。各位讀者千萬不要錯過這瓶好酒。適飲期 : 2016~2031年

Stephen Tanzer: Good full medium red. Deep, ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, smoke and minerals. Wonderfully sweet and expressive, with lovely intensity and definition to the flavors of redcurrant, minerals, dried flowers and underbrush. Much more perfumed than the 2005 version, and quite stylish for such a strong wine. Finishes with dense but fine-grained tannins and late notes of mint and menthol. This will live a long time: Grasso suggests laying it down for seven or eight years. Gavarini is Grasso’s home vineyard; indeed, the family owns the lion’s share of this beautiful amphitheater-like cru. Score 93 – International Wine Cellar.

色澤呈現中度的紅色，成熟的覆盆子、櫻桃、煙燻和礦石的香味。精湛的甜度與表現力中綻放出令人愉悅恰到好處的紅醋栗、礦石、乾燥花和草叢的香氣。比 2005 年份的酒還要芬芳，更時髦。尾韻濃郁但帶有細膩的單寧味，最後以薄荷氣味劃上了句點。

2007 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera

Robert Parker -- 93

The 2007 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera opens with an exotic bouquet of candied red fruit, flowers, mint and minerals. This is an unusually opulent, racy style for Grasso. The Gavarini is a touch hot and alcoholic at first, but with several hours of air, that quality seemed to resolve itself nicely. Silky, beautifully integrated tannins frame a finish of exceptional elegance. The personality of the year marks the Gavarini to a significant degree. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027.

這瓶 2007 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera 開瓶後散發出奇特的香氣，有糖煮的紅色水果、花香、薄菏何礦物質等複雜的香氣，有著 Grasso 特有的富裕和美好的個性。豐富的單寧如絲綢般的美好柔順，餘醞也意想不到的優雅，對 Gavarini 而言這是一個絕佳的代表性年份。適飲期 : 2015~2027。

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