澳洲傳奇酒莊 Mount Mary Vineyard 夢瑪麗酒莊－夢幻酒鋪 (酩豐)

James Holliday

五顆紅星最高等級酒莊

澳洲傳奇酒莊 Mount Mary Vineyard 夢瑪麗酒莊

說新世界產酒區，不能不提澳洲，說澳洲酒，更不能不提 Mount Mary Vineyard 夢瑪麗酒莊和她的創始者 Dr. John Middleton 麥道滕醫生。

在澳洲，他的酒是收藏品，但他每年只對外出售一次，平日重門深鎖，並不招待訪者，要買嗎，首先要把閣下的名字放進他的被邀名單，要自已的名字在他的購買名單內，就必須先進入他的輪候名單，等到有人連續兩三年沒有訂購了，算是自我放棄，或者有人去世，方才有機會成為被邀之列，同時，為了避免超賣，一個地址又只許一個戶口，而且每每限量發售，又不歡迎攜友帶親，如此這般的惱人規矩，愛酒人士依然趨之若鶩，何解？酒好之外，稀有是原因之一，數十年來，收藏家引頸以待他的邀請柬和訂購表，到了開放那天，有些就當是什麼大事一般，抱著朝聖的心情來，再一睹大師的風采；新加入的更興奮，彷彿小孩子進了殿堂；有些老遠駕車而來，算是每年一聚，試試酒，見見老朋友。

麥老醫生在二次大戰期間，在澳洲空軍服務了四年，後來獲得了醫學學位，除了擁有起死回生的醫術之外，也是他在二十世紀七十年代一手把早於二十年代已經死去的雅萊谷Yarra Valley的葡萄種植和釀酒業救活過來。

麥老的 Mount Mary Wine，未必人人聽過，更未必人人飲過，因為四個不同種類，加起來總產量每年只有三仟五佰打，通常在市場上流通甚少。

老實說，不少法國莊園在他們之前應該感到汗顏。

~ 2007年香港港酒經雜誌 “一代巨匠麥道滕” 文章 ~

Mount Mary Vineyard 夢瑪麗酒莊介紹

夢瑪麗酒莊是一個家族所經營的酒莊，單一的葡萄園座落于澳洲東南角維多利亞省的 Yarra Valley。酒莊由Dr. John Middleton 醫生(1923-2006), 成立于 1971 年，是 Yarra Valley第一個生產高級酒的葡萄園之一。

Dr. John Middleton醫生，早年在Melbourne University 攻讀醫學，之後加入澳洲空軍成為氣象預報員，後來受到同學 Dr. Peter McMahon 的啟發，開始對釀酒產生了興趣。

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1960年後，他們廣泛拜訪波爾多和布根地葡萄酒產區、 John、和太太 Marli 已完全被法國的高級酒迷住了。他們決定開始尋找合適的地方，建立一個完全以波爾多葡萄品種為主的葡萄園。

事實上早在1920-1970年，Yarra Valley 的釀酒業因為經濟衰退、戰爭和根牙蟲肆虐的因素，已逐漸沒落，僅剩下畜牧業。John和 Marli 在 1971 年很偶然發現了Yarra Valley的 Mount Mary 這座山。他們很驚訝該地區還沒有種植葡萄，且他們立即認為向北面的斜坡是最理想的葡萄種植場所。一九七二年栽植了第一批葡萄，至今仍只有30 英畝的葡萄園栽種各葡萄品種。

有 10種葡萄品種在葡萄園種植，酒莊生產四款葡萄酒、兩個白酒和兩個紅酒。白酒一個是Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 的波爾多混合並加入 Muscadelle 命名為 “ Triolet ”。另外兩款是勃根地單一品種Chardonnay白酒和Pinot Noir 紅酒。第四款為波爾多式的Cabernet混合酒 (Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot/Malbec/Petit Verdot)，稱之為 “ Quintet (五重奏) ”。

“ Quintet (五重奏) ”是澳洲最具代表性的酒款之一，被澳洲知名拍賣公司Langton’s評為最高等級及最具投資價值的11款酒之一，媲美 Penfolds B95 Grange 、Bin 707 和 Henschke Hill of Grace，是一定必需擁有的酒款。

Quintet 的酒體完全不像澳州酒，簡單說，就是--不是我們所熟悉的顏色深、酒體濃、口感濃烈、高酒精度的怪物酒(Parker 的最愛)，許多評論家認為Quintet 像極了 Chateau Margaux，呈現中度酒體、結構複雜完整、酒體優雅宏大、餘韻悠長不絕，是一馥郁和優雅之間取得平衡的酒款。

他 (Dr. John Middleton醫生) 一直是澳洲最低調的酒莊，從不尋求媒體的關注，不提供酒款給專家評分 ( Parker說 The Proprietor of Mount Mary has never wanted me to taste his wines 。Parker 卻自己偷偷買來試喝 )，也不在意分數的高低，夢瑪麗酒莊平常大門深鎖，沒有公開的品酒室，更不用舉辦餐酒會來促銷酒。他按照自己的意念釀酒，在他30幾年的釀酒生涯中，屢屢獲得酒評家高分的讚許，仍有少數酒評家(Parker)對他無情的批評 (後來Parker 卻說 2005 Mount Mary Pinot Noir 像 Domaine Dujac Premier Cru )，他也坦然面對，相較於喝過夢瑪麗葡萄酒的愛酒人士，卻都讚不絕口，忍受多年的排隊，非買不可的情況，更顯出他的絕對優秀。

自從成立以來，夢瑪麗酒莊的成功是由於僅尊 “ 重質不重量 ”的格言，以及專注於最高品質、專業、先進的設備、注重細節和一致性的理念，贏得許多排隊的郵購客戶和餐廳客戶的喜愛。

2007年份由於受到霜害，酒莊為維持品質決定 "全不生產" 。

Robert Parker 對 Mount Mary 得評語 :

The late John Middleton’s cult estate is now in the hands of sons Nick and Sam Middleton with Rob Hall making the wines for the last eight years. According to Nick and Sam, John was pretty hands-on and fastidious right up until his death in 2006. He realized the potential dangers of Brettanomyces relatively early-on - some of his wines from the 1990s display varying states of infection - and from 2002 the reds have all been filtered to offer some protection. To see a winery of such enormous potential handling Brett in this manner is a very big disappointment to me. Most wineries of this status have found other more successful and less damaging means of handling this menace. The current releases are unquestionably good, but I can’t help imagine how very great they could be.

後語

既然Mount Mary Vineyard的酒這麼難買到，尤其是台灣幾乎一瓶難見，甚至知道Mount Mary Vineyard的人士甚少，為何我們這麼有信心引進呢? 我們有幸於去年從澳洲找到並帶回一瓶 2005 Quintet，試過後真的令人驚豔，至今難忘；克服萬難的說服酒廠，給我們一點點的數量，讓在台灣的愛酒人士，也能嚐到這知名酒莊的佳釀。

Mount Mary Wines 酒款介紹

Triolet

MM Triolet

在 1987 年，開始生產波爾多的格拉夫(Graves)產區風格的白葡萄酒 Triolet 白酒，該酒是由 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon and 5% Muscadelle混合而成。每個品種在最成熟時採摘，而且分別發酵。由於每個葡萄品種成熟的時間不同，所以選擇在Sauvignon Blanc的強烈的草味消失之後、Semillon 的酸度柔順之時, 和 Muscadelle 香氣達到最高時，才採摘葡萄。我們大部分舊的橡木桶並在桶中發酵，酒糟攪拌添加複雜性和酒體。發酵後在橡木桶中熟成 10 個月，慢慢發展複雜的香味。

2008 Mount Mary Vineyard Tiolet Yarra Valley

Robert Parker -- 90

Blended of 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon and 10% Muscadelle, the 2008 Triolet spent 11 months in old oak, a third of it in large format with lees stirring for 3-4 months. It is lemon curd and pineapple scented, with subtle notes of struck match, nuts, chalk dust, and brine. The medium-bodied palate lends crisp acid and a long chalky finish. Drinking now, it should continue to cellar until 2015.

Chardonnay

MM Chardonnay

在 Chardonnay 白酒釀製的過程中，我們部分採用 Burgundians 勃根地的釀酒方式，但仍使用有一些當地的作法，以確保酒的獨特性。我們的目標就是要作出一個達到馥郁和優雅之間取得平衡的酒款。最值得注意的是我們的並不使用乳酸發酵，保留本地氣候所帶來的理想酸度。我們使用20%的法國新橡木桶以及80%舊的大木桶 (1500L)來發酵。整個生產均在橡木桶中完成。與 Triolet 一樣以酒糟攪拌增加質地、複雜性及酒體。並在橡木桶中 10 個月的成熟。

2008 Mount Mary Vineyard Chardonnay Yarra Valley

Robert Paarker -- 91

The fruit for the 2008 Chardonnay comes from the original Chardonnay block planted in 1971/2 and a 20 year block. A small proportion (2 barrels) went through malo-lactic this vintage and it was matured 11 months in oak, 20-25% new, with lees stirring for 3-4 months. It has delicate aromas of peaches, lemon tart, cream, chalk, key lime and meal. The medium-bodied palate has crisp acidity with an enticing bit of ginger coming thorough on the long, minerally finish. This wine is a little tight at the moment and would benefit from another year in bottle and should cellar to 2017+.

2005 年 – James Halliday Score 96 – Wine Companion.

-- Jeremy Oliver Score 95
-- Josh Raynolds Score 93 – International Wine Cellar.
2004年 - Score 92 -- Wineanorak.com
2002年 - Stephen Tanzer Score 92 -- - International Wine Cellar

Pinot noir

在 Pinot Noir 的部份，是以去梗的方式來發酵，以今日的標準來比，使用較短的發酵期--只有 7天。酒廠強調的重點在於簡單，所以發酵前後都不使用低溫浸泡。並在大型橡木桶中熟成二十二個月。

2006 Mount Mary Vineyard Pinot Noir Yarra Valley

Jeremy Oliver : 96分

Mount Mary is a vanguard producer of Australian Pinot Noir. The low yielding vineyard, planted in 1972 by Doctor John Middleton, is almost 12.5 hectares and is planted on grey soils (sandy clay loams overlying degenerating Silurian shales). Only 10% of the Mount Mary vineyard is devoted to Pinot Noir. The grapes are de-stalked prior to fermentation and the wines see very little new French oak (rarely above 10%). The young wines show strong, varietal, strawberry/cherry aromas and a supple evenly proportioned palate. Andrew Caillard MW

Mount Mary 是澳洲 Pinot Noir 的領先者，這片12.5公頃的葡萄園是栽種於1972年，只佔了 Mount Mary 葡萄園的10 %，土壤是灰色的沙和頁岩，為了保持Pinot Noir 的原味，葡萄採收發酵後大多存放於舊橡木桶中(只有10 % 新桶)，這瓶酒表現出豐富多變的口感，草莓、櫻桃的香氣，均衡柔順的餘韻，像法國柏根地一樣保持最單純的原味。

Robert Parker -- 93

The 2006 Pinot Noir spent 22 months in barrel, 15% new. With a pale to medium ruby color, it gives fragrant aromas of violets, game, red cherry and wild strawberry with an earthy whiff of forest floor and truffles. Medium-high acid and a low to medium level of fine tannins lend just enough structure to the intense palate. Long in the finish, this wine is starting to drink now and should continue to be delicious until 2015+. 600 cases were made.

Parker 說 2005 Mount Mary Pinot Noir 像 Domaine Dujac Premier Cru

2005 年 - Robert Parker Scpre 92+ - The Wine Advocate
- Jeremy Oliver Score 94
- James Halliday Score 94 – 2009 Wine Companion.
2004年 - Josh Raynolds Score 92 – International Wine Cellar.
2003年 - Score 92 -- Wineanorak.com

Quintet 五重奏

MM Quintet

由於Quintet 是波爾多式風格的酒款，所以它是由 Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (20%), Malbec (3%) and Petit Verdot (2%) 所構成的。每個品種，隨著年份的不同，以果實的成熟度，作為最後的混合變化的百分比。最大的好處，我們有數量很多的高品質葡萄，讓我們選擇每個品種中最好的葡萄，這將有助於在口味、單寧、酸類和醇類等取得高水準的品質。雖然使用稍長的發酵期，就像在 Pinot 的短發酵期（最多 10 天）。並在中大型橡木桶中熟成二十二個月。

2005 Mount Mary Vineyard Quintet Yarra Valley

James Halliday : Supremely graceful and fine in typical Mount Mary style; the long and silky palate has a tapestry of red and black fruit flavours, the finish long and satisfying, the aftertaste lingering for minutes. Score 95 – 2009 Wine Companion.

James Halliday : 95分
無與倫比的優雅和精緻，是Mount Mary葡萄酒典型的風格，悠長和絲綢般的口感，紅色和黑色醬果帶來豐富的口感，超長而滿足的餘韻，驚人的喉韻長達一分鐘之久。

Jeremy Oliver : Supremely elegant, stylish and focused, this aristocratic red has a heady, floral perfume of dark cherries, plums, cassis and blackberries backed by scents of violets and dried herbs, dark chocolate/vanilla oak and suggestions of mocha. Sumptuously flavoured but silky-smooth, it’s dark-fruited, dusty and savoury, with an intensity that builds steadily towards its palate-staining finish. Framed by fine and beautifully ripened tannins, it flaunts (show off) its considerable influence from Merlot. Drink 2017-2025. Score 96 – Jeremy Oliver. A$145

Jeremy Oliver : 96分
至高無上的優雅，精緻且集中，貴族般的紅色帶有令人神醉的花香，充滿黑櫻桃、洋李子、黑醋栗、黑苺所帶來豐富的口感，紫羅蘭和乾燥香草的優美香氣，橡木桶引來黑巧克力和咖啡的味道，波濤洶湧的口感卻如絲綢般的滑順，綿密不絕的餘韻，成熟的單寧帶來完美的結構，Merlot 的表現更加相得益彰。適飲期 2017~2025

2006 Mount Mary Vineyard Quintet Yarra Valley

Jeremy Oliver: "97 Points. A terrific wine of superb balance and focus. Its smoky bouquet of small dark berries and plums overlies nuances of mushrooms, minerals and restrained cedary oak. Supremely long, elegant and fine-grained, it still presents remarkable depth and richness of dark cherry, plum and berry flavour underpinned by fine crunchy tannins, nuances of dried herbs and suggestions of briar and undergrowth. It finishes with exceptional length and tight-knit acidity.(19.3/97, YTD 2018-2026+)" - Jeremy Oliver, jeremyoliver.com.au.

Jeremy Oliver : 97分

一瓶了不起的酒，有完美的平衡感和集中度，小黑苺果、洋李子並依附磨菇、礦石和控制得宜的橡木帶來的煙薰味，超長的餘韻優雅且持久，表現完美的本質，另有非凡的深度變化，黑櫻桃、梅子帶來悠美細緻的單寧，香氣彷彿樹叢中的野薔薇，悠長的喉韻和源源不絕宜人的酸度。適飲期 2018~2026+

Robert Parker -- 94

Comprised of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc and small proportions of Malbec and Petit Verdot, the 2006 Quintet spent 22 months in barrel, 30% of which was large format and just 30% new oak. Winemaker Rob Hall explained that John Middleton liked this wine to come in at around 12.5% alcohol if at all possible and of course it can be a challenge to get phenolics ripe at this level of lightness. But if anyone can do it in this area, Mount Mary can – this vintage came in at a modest 12.9%. Deep garnet in color, this wine has restrained aromas of cassis, dried Mediterranean herbs, graphite and loam plus pinches of cardamom and cloves. Light to medium-bodied with high acid and medium-firm finely grained tannins, this wine finishes very long. It’s still a little tight knit and needs 2-3 years to open, thereafter evolving through the next 8-10 years and keeping to 2024+. If this caliber of grapes were produced in Bordeaux they would have chaptilised and put a lot more oak on it, blurring this wonderful expression of the land...shame about the filtration though, particularly on such a delicate wine!

2004年 - Josh Raynolds Score 93 – International Wine Cellar.
2003年 - Score 93 -- Wineanorak.com
2002年 - Stephen Tanzer Score 92+ -- International Wine Cellar
1999年 - Score 97 – Wine Spectator
- Jeremy Oliver Score 96

專家對 Mount Mary Vineyard 的評論

Berry Brothers & Rudd said “Mount Mary has an exalted reputation in the wine world and has accrued a somewhat cult following.”

James Halliday : Mount Mary in Victoria is rightly revered as one of the greatest Yarra Valley wineries. Indeed, many long-term admirers of the 30-plus vintages it has produced regard it as the best.

Wine Spectator 於去年2008年，重新試飲評定知名的澳洲老酒，其中 1999 年 Mount Mary Quintet 榮獲97分的第三高分。證明 Mount Mary 的陳年及值得收藏的實力

Australian Reds Retrospective

Posted: Thursday, September 04, 2008

ELDERTON Shiraz Barossa Command 1998 Score: 99

Rich, ripe and seductive, still amazingly youthful, brimming with red plum, blackberry and guava flavors, speckled with layers of exotic spice, crème brûlée, a touch of licorice and a hint of espresso. The structure is utterly seamless, and it all comes together harmoniously. Seems like this can go for ages. 375 cases imported. —H.S.

HENSCHKE Shiraz Eden Valley Hill of Grace 1996 Score: 98

Ripe, complex and tremendously expressive, with a meaty character weaving through the gorgeous blackberry, mulberry, plum and exotic spice aromas and flavors, which form up into a harmonious chorus and keep singing gloriously on the long, refined and open-textured finish. 500 cases made. —H.S.

MOUNT MARY Quintet Yarra Valley 1999 Score: 97

Amazingly fresh and vital, offering a pure, focused beam of raspberry, red plum and blackberry fruit that picks up extra hints of cream and delicate floral notes as the finish sails on and on. Not a big wine, but this has tremendous presence and just doesn't quit on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. 50 cases imported. —H.S.

PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia Grange 1998 Score: 97

A wine of surprising subtlety for the vintage, playing its ripe cherry, red plum and herb flavors against firm tannins that have a bit of grit to them. But those lively cherry and raspberry flavors burst through, and there's a nice hint of green herbs lingering around the finish, which doesn't subside easily. 9,000 cases made. —H.S.

CLARENDON HILLS Astralis Clarendon 1996 Score: 96

Supple, silky and round, with some transparency to the dark plum, blackberry and exotic spice flavors, lingering gently on the long, expressive finish. Tannins are present, but nicely integrated, and the finish keeps welling up without bubbling over. Syrah. 450 cases made. —H.S.

BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE Shiraz Barossa Valley E&E Black Pepper 1996 Score: 95

Rich and spicy, offering a heady mix of smoky tobacco and bittersweet chocolate character against dark plum, cherry and raspberry flavors. Silky smooth in texture, with plenty of heft underneath the soft surface and a freshness that suggests this has years to go. 4,000 cases made. —H.S.

專家對Quintet (五重奏) 的評論

Leading British wine writer Hugh Johnson considered Dr Middleton a “perfectionist”, making “suave” Chardonnay, “vivid” Pinot Noir and Australia’s “most Bordeaux-like claret”. “All will age impeccably,” he said. A wine writer at The Times in London, Jane MacQuitty, delighted in Dr Middleton’s “idiosyncratic” style, recommending bottle ageing before his wines showed their best.

Mount Mary’s quality, not to mention its ageing ability, made it an obvious choice for inclusion in the first classification of distinguished Australian wines drawn up by auction house Langtons in 1991. The Quintet (Cabernets as it was then) was originally listed as A1 quality. The only other wine to receive the same accolade was Penfolds Grange. Today the category was been revised to Exceptional and Mount Mary Quintet continues to be one of only seven wines to receive the honour.

In September last year, Epicure saluted those wines that best defined Australia, including Quintet in the list - which numbered only six - for its defining Australian attributes: complexity and elegance.

“I believe some of his wines are among the greatest wines ever made in Australia,” says noted Melbourne wine man Doug Crittenden, who founded the Crittenden chain of wine stores. “In fact, I prefer drinking his wines any time over Grange.”

James Halliday said “(The Quintet was) First made in 1977; one of few wines in Australia to include in its makeup the five classic grape varieties of Bordeaux: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit verdot. This wine is Mount Mary’s finest; at its best the ultimate expression of the style, at its least showing that the climate of the Yarra Valley can treat the later-ripening varieties with harshness.”

Jeremy Oliver said “One of our first reds from what has since become known as the ‘Bordeaux blend’ of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Malbec ,which have since been joined by the remaining Bordeaux red grape, Petite Verdot. A fine, classically-structured claret style proven time and again in the cellar. The only Yarra Valley wine consistently made to this standard.

最具投資價值的澳洲葡萄酒

Langton’s 澳洲知名的葡萄酒拍賣公司

3 Nov, 2005 澳洲葡萄酒

在澳洲葡萄酒逐漸受到國際收藏家和投資人重視之際，澳洲著名的葡萄酒拍賣公司Langton’s為了讓買家瞭解市場對澳洲葡萄酒喜好和需求的變化，自1991年開始編製Classification of Australian Wine〈2005年已出到第5版〉，現已成為市場上投資澳洲葡萄酒的重要指標。這份Classification將市場最注目的101款澳洲葡萄酒分成4個等級，其中11款列為最具投資價值的Exceptional等級澳洲葡萄酒。

Exceptional

PENFOLDS Bin 95 Grange Shiraz, South Australia
BASS PHILLIP Reserve Pinot Noir, South Gippsland Victoria
CULLEN Diana Madeline Cabernet-Merlot, Margaret River
GIACONDA Chardonnay, Beechworth Victoria
HENSCHKE Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley South Australia
LEEUWIN ESTATE Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River
MOSS WOOD Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River Western Australia
MOUNT MARY Quintet Cabernet Blend, Yarra Valley Victoria
PENFOLDS Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia
ROCKFORD Basket Press Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
WENDOUREE Shiraz, Clare Valley South Australia